The Smyrna Amish business grew from farm stand to retail store

HOULTON, Maine — August 22, 2024 — Michael Frantz checks out a shopper at the Back 40 Farm Market in Smyrna. (Kathleen Phalen Tomaselli | Houlton Pioneer Times)

SMYRNA, Maine – It’s a full day from dawn to dusk for the cooperative Amish families who work and grow for The Back 40 Farm Market along Route 2 just past Pioneer Place in Smyrna.

“It’s a busy summer because the growing season is short and we have to do a lot in a short time to keep things fresh here,” said Jonas Esch, one of the three market managers.

Reminiscent of Victorian heirloom gardens filled with deep red tomatoes, crisp, vibrant greens and blooming melons, this Amish co-op began in 1997 as a porch farm that sits down the road from its current location.

As demand for their produce grew, they brought more growers from the Smyrna Amish community on board, and today it’s a 12-family retail store offering freshly picked freshness daily.

“We collaborate and market our products together,” he said. “We have a much larger selection than we had before.”

The market offers fresh-picked produce, pickles they make on-site, grass-fed beef, pasture-raised chicken, pasture-raised pork, raw milk, butter, cheese, yogurt, kefir, jams and jellies, baked goods, baskets, leather goods, freshly picked and pick your own flowers and more.

On August 30th and 31st, they are hosting an open house at the farm market with free handmade vanilla ice cream with toppings along with items for sale in the store. Grass-fed beef burgers will also be for sale, Esch said.

There are about 26 families in the Smyrna Amish community, and in addition to the Back 40 Farm Market, they have several other businesses in this Aroostook County town of 420, including a general store and greenhouse.

Last spring, co-op members built the wooden farmers market building, expanding into their new location. Since then, they continue to explore new and unusual offerings.

“We hope to continue to add more specialty fruits and vegetables. We learn how to grow more and more things every year,” Esch said. “It could be things like cilantro or bok choy, things you can’t find anywhere else.”

Among their more unique selections are Jalapeno Cheddar Bread, Kohlrabi, Hot Wax Hungarian Peppers, Hot & Spicy Pickles, Heirloom Tomatoes, FROG Jam (Fig, Raspberry, Orange & Grape), Monster Cookies, Buggy Whip Artisan Cheddar Cheese Sharp and 12- bags of beans and other canning products.

Not to mention competitive prices like large pumpkins for $1 each, handmade leather dog collars for $11.25 and fresh baked bread from $4 to $6.

Baked goods are made on-site and baked in a commercial wood-fired oven.

A large “ice box” provides refrigeration for certain items.

Each winter, they actually remove the ice from designated ponds or rinks for harvesting. Once the ice is about a foot thick, they use specially made saws and cut it into blocks. There is a large insulated room with two feet of insulation and a one foot thick door.

“It’s the most economical refrigeration,” Esch said. “It also keeps our milk cold.”

On Tuesday morning, the store was filled with shoppers buying melons, beans, baskets, baked goods, cut your own flowers, and by 10:30 a.m. the jalapeno bread was already sold out.

The meat is processed at the Smyrna USDA slaughterhouse and stored in a propane freezer.

Each morning the farm families bring their items to the market and take turns working while three managers, Esch, Wilson Hilty and Michael Auker make sure there is a steady supply and that things run smoothly.

This year, they’re thinking about keeping the store open year-round, although in previous years, as a farm stand it’s been open through November, Esch said.

“We work hard to keep as much product fresh as possible,” Esch said. “We have strong support and interest from local people.”

The Back 40 Farm Market is open Monday through Friday (closed Thursday) from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.